Installing U.H.D.P.E. daggerboard guides
A. Prior to installing the U.H.D.P.E. guides, it is highly recommended to break the the sharp corners of the guides with a hand plane as the cavities the guides fitted into previously, had wooden guides with the corners rounded.
B. All ends of the guides should be cut to a 10 degree angle.
C. Make up a test guide from a piece of scrap wood approx. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" by 60" in length.
D. Make a duplicate of the top of the daggerboard out of 1/2" thick plywood as a test piece to ensure the guides are inserted with sufficient clearance for the daggerboard to slide easily.
E. Start the actual insertion by trying to install the trial guide in the front cavity to see if it fits properly in the lower portion of the cavity and the 1/8" relief on the lower section is suitable. Look at the bottom of the trunk from below to see that it fits properly.
F. Determine what length will allow the front guide (#1) to slip into position. A test guide with a maximum length of 53" was what we could fit into our front cavity. Remember a spacer (#5) will be inserted between the front guide and top plate - a shim with a thickness of .390" slid quite easily betwwen the top plate and the front guide on WALTZING MATILDA. Remember not to exert excessive down force on the front guide as there is only a 1/2" wide lip at the bottom of the trunk to keep the guide from falling out.
G. Next install the top plate (#2) with the four mast step bolts (#11).
H. Determine, using the test guide, what length will allow the rear guide (#3) to be inserted, as the 7/8" lip around the lower trunk opening causes problems. The maximum length we could get in our rear cavity was 51 3/4". This length will take some fiddling as you have to insert the guide, get it over center in order to insert the lower end of the guide in the lower cavity. Remember a spacer block will transfer pressure from the top plate to the rear guide. A spacer block (#6) of 1.900" thickness was required for a snug fit of our rear guide that had a length of 51 3/4". Also remember to relieve the lower end of the rear guide to allow for the 7/8" high fillet around the trunk exit (reduce width of guide from 2 3/8" to 1 3/4" for a height of 1"). Another reminder to not get too rambunctious exerting down pressure on the rear guide as there is only a 1/2" fibreglass lip that it rests on.
I. Now you can insert the winch cable (#4) into top plate, thru rear pulley on support plate (#13), around pulley (#7) attached to daggerboard, and counterclockwisw around front pulley and secure end of cable to becket (#12) on daggerboard pulley. Of course, you remembered to notch out the rear guide to accept the pulley support plate (Reduce top width of rear guide from 2 3/8" tp 1 3/4" for a distance of 4 1/2" from the top.
J. Now insert the 2 (3/8" x 16 t.p.i.) bolts (#8) to attach pulley support plate to top plate.
K. After ensuring that the test duplicate of the top of the daggerboard goes up and down smoothly, install the daggerboard.
L. Attach the pulley assembly to the top of the daggerboard and ensure that the daggerboard goes up and down smoothly.
M. Make up spacers for the top of the guides, remembering not to exert excessive downward pressure on guides as only the 1/2" fibreglass lip is holding them from falling out the bottom of the trunk.
N. Drill the 3/8" hole for the limit bolt and install limit bolt (#14) with rubber washers and large stainless washers. Drill and install the 4 bolts (#9) (1/4" x 20 t.p.i.) holding the top plate to the front and rear guides. Drill and install the 3" long (1/4" x 20 t.p.i.) stainless bolts (#16), with special washers and self locking nuts for securing the guides to the centerboard trunk.
O. After ensuring everything still functions OK, install the safety strap (#10) on the front of the centerboard. Our safety strap was 41 1/2" in length.
P. If still no problems, install top side cover after drilling pilot holes in the guides.
The new guides installed and daggerboard in fully raised position
New guides installed and daggerboard in fully lowered position.
New guides installed and 1/4"-20 t.p.i. 3" long flat head bolts with 1/8" thick special stainless steel washers installed thru trunk and guides to anchor guides in position as nothing will adhere well to U.H.D.P.E.
Notice bottom of daggerboard trunk original fibreglass has not been disturbed.
The daggerboard moves up and down smoothly, without any great effort, even with the balanced winch cable system.
DONE!! -CONGRATULATIONS. The new guides should be trouble free for a long, long time and your MATILDA has greatly appreciated in value.
A. Prior to installing the U.H.D.P.E. guides, it is highly recommended to break the the sharp corners of the guides with a hand plane as the cavities the guides fitted into previously, had wooden guides with the corners rounded.
B. All ends of the guides should be cut to a 10 degree angle.
C. Make up a test guide from a piece of scrap wood approx. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" by 60" in length.
D. Make a duplicate of the top of the daggerboard out of 1/2" thick plywood as a test piece to ensure the guides are inserted with sufficient clearance for the daggerboard to slide easily.
E. Start the actual insertion by trying to install the trial guide in the front cavity to see if it fits properly in the lower portion of the cavity and the 1/8" relief on the lower section is suitable. Look at the bottom of the trunk from below to see that it fits properly.
F. Determine what length will allow the front guide (#1) to slip into position. A test guide with a maximum length of 53" was what we could fit into our front cavity. Remember a spacer (#5) will be inserted between the front guide and top plate - a shim with a thickness of .390" slid quite easily betwwen the top plate and the front guide on WALTZING MATILDA. Remember not to exert excessive down force on the front guide as there is only a 1/2" wide lip at the bottom of the trunk to keep the guide from falling out.
G. Next install the top plate (#2) with the four mast step bolts (#11).
H. Determine, using the test guide, what length will allow the rear guide (#3) to be inserted, as the 7/8" lip around the lower trunk opening causes problems. The maximum length we could get in our rear cavity was 51 3/4". This length will take some fiddling as you have to insert the guide, get it over center in order to insert the lower end of the guide in the lower cavity. Remember a spacer block will transfer pressure from the top plate to the rear guide. A spacer block (#6) of 1.900" thickness was required for a snug fit of our rear guide that had a length of 51 3/4". Also remember to relieve the lower end of the rear guide to allow for the 7/8" high fillet around the trunk exit (reduce width of guide from 2 3/8" to 1 3/4" for a height of 1"). Another reminder to not get too rambunctious exerting down pressure on the rear guide as there is only a 1/2" fibreglass lip that it rests on.
I. Now you can insert the winch cable (#4) into top plate, thru rear pulley on support plate (#13), around pulley (#7) attached to daggerboard, and counterclockwisw around front pulley and secure end of cable to becket (#12) on daggerboard pulley. Of course, you remembered to notch out the rear guide to accept the pulley support plate (Reduce top width of rear guide from 2 3/8" tp 1 3/4" for a distance of 4 1/2" from the top.
J. Now insert the 2 (3/8" x 16 t.p.i.) bolts (#8) to attach pulley support plate to top plate.
K. After ensuring that the test duplicate of the top of the daggerboard goes up and down smoothly, install the daggerboard.
L. Attach the pulley assembly to the top of the daggerboard and ensure that the daggerboard goes up and down smoothly.
M. Make up spacers for the top of the guides, remembering not to exert excessive downward pressure on guides as only the 1/2" fibreglass lip is holding them from falling out the bottom of the trunk.
N. Drill the 3/8" hole for the limit bolt and install limit bolt (#14) with rubber washers and large stainless washers. Drill and install the 4 bolts (#9) (1/4" x 20 t.p.i.) holding the top plate to the front and rear guides. Drill and install the 3" long (1/4" x 20 t.p.i.) stainless bolts (#16), with special washers and self locking nuts for securing the guides to the centerboard trunk.
O. After ensuring everything still functions OK, install the safety strap (#10) on the front of the centerboard. Our safety strap was 41 1/2" in length.
P. If still no problems, install top side cover after drilling pilot holes in the guides.
The new guides installed and daggerboard in fully raised position
New guides installed and daggerboard in fully lowered position.
New guides installed and 1/4"-20 t.p.i. 3" long flat head bolts with 1/8" thick special stainless steel washers installed thru trunk and guides to anchor guides in position as nothing will adhere well to U.H.D.P.E.
Notice bottom of daggerboard trunk original fibreglass has not been disturbed.
The daggerboard moves up and down smoothly, without any great effort, even with the balanced winch cable system.
DONE!! -CONGRATULATIONS. The new guides should be trouble free for a long, long time and your MATILDA has greatly appreciated in value.
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